TRAVEL ACCIDENT: $23 CUP OF COFFEE!

drinking Luwak coffee in Penang

TRAVEL ACCIDENT: $23 CUP OF COFFEE!

Holy S**t!  I just paid $23 US for an espresso-size cup of coffee!

While touring a Penang museum yesterday, I came upon their cafe.  Jane, the friendly, outgoing cafe proprietor promptly told me about their Kopi Luwak and explained their process of preparing the coffee for customers at the table, using all sorts of interesting apparatus. Since I’m a huge fan of espresso coffees, in particular, and high-quality coffees in general, that sounded like a wonderful little adventure. I’d had coffee prepared for me in Hanoi, Vietnam, which was quite a treat. Why not try it again?

Jane explaining Luwak coffee making

So after completing my museum tour then going for lunch nearby, I returned to experience Kopi Luwak. I’d heard of Luwak coffee before. It’s the one where coffee beans are collected in the jungles of Java and Sumatra, Indonesia, after they’ve passed through the excretory system of the Civet Cat, who survives solely on coffee fruits. My initial reaction to that story had been one of disbelief. “Oh yeah, that’s a crazy coffee fairy tale.” I declared. Over the years, however, I came to learn that such a coffee actually exists. People really do drink coffee from beans shat out of the ass of a jungle cat! Perhaps even more ridiculous, Luwak coffee is considered to be  gourmet coffee. Or, as I was informed at the cafe, “the best coffee in the world”.

Jane setting up Luwak coffee appartus

Arriving at the cafe, I set up my video camera to capture the event while Jane pulled out all her utensils, which looked something like a science experiment. It crossed my mind to ask her the price of such ‘royal’ service. But the other cafe prices ranged from 4- 10 RM ($1.35- 3.35 US). I figured that even if this special Luwak coffee was a bit more than their standard coffee, it wouldn’t be more than an espresso coffee at nearby Coffee Bean- 10-12 RM, at most. What’s more, I remembered that the Vietnamese coffee in Hanoi had cost a pittance, around $1.00. So I skipped my inquiry and sat down to make a video of Jane preparing and serving me Kopi Luwak.

hand grinding Luwak coffee beans

The coffee-making process was quite fun and unusual. Jane measured out a scoop of coffee beans and placed them in a hand grinder. She asked me to grind the beans myself, which turned out to require considerably more muscle power and energy than I expected.. After several minutes of tightly gripping the cylindrical vessel and heartily cranking, I eventually ground up all the beans.

Jane rubbing pot to cool off coffee

Meanwhile, Jane poured a small amount of water into a tall glass beaker, placed an oil-fueled flame underneath and began boiling water. She then placed the coffee grounds in a smaller container that fit above the beaker. Immediately water began ascending up into the coffee. When all the water had evaporated up, she removed the flame, rubbed the bottom of the beaker with a cloth to speed up cooling, and then set a timer to 2 minutes- the coffee brewing time.

Jane pouring Luwak coffee

Finally, she poured me an espresso-size cup of freshly-brewed Luwak coffee and added some sugar, by request. She explained that one must take at least 4 sips before deciding if one liked it or not. I liked it from my very first sip. Strong, dense, slightly bitter. Very similar to espresso. I would have preferred a touch of milk, but Jane distinctly stated that no milk was to be added.

traditional Peranakan kitchen utensils

I sat at the cafe’s marble Chinese table, admired a beautiful Chinese wall painting, and sipped ‘The Best Coffee in the World’.  A few minutes later I collected my possessions and proceeded to the register to pay. When Jane announced 68 MR ($23US), my eyes nearly popped out of my head, my mouth dropped open, and I uttered, “What?!”

Not only was the price waayyyy beyond my wildest imagination, but I did not have nearly enough money to pay! My wallet contained 23 RM and no credit card. “Wow. I’m so sorry. I don’t have that much money with me. But don’t worry, I’m staying in Penang for two months. I’ll come back today or tomorrow to pay”. lf I were a person who got easily embarrassed, I imagine I’d be beet red from ear to ear. Luckily for me, I’m not and I wasn’t

Jane was completely unperturbed. “No worries. You just come back and pay my staff. I’m going away for a few days.”

I suspect this was not the first time Jane’s experienced a surprised reaction from her Kopi Luwak price tag.

She went on to explain that at Harrod’s in London,  Luwak coffee costs 68 British pounds. Here in Malaysia, 68 RM was a bargain by international standards… Yes, indeed.  Thank you very much.

Lash enjoying Luwak coffee in Penang

I stumbled out into Penang’s bright midday sun and down the road, wondering which funds I should use for my ‘bargain’ coffee. I pondered what else I could have done with 68 RM in Penang. That would have covered 3 nights at my hotel, or 3 full days of food and drink, or 6-8 double espressos at Starbucks, or 5-7 movies at the cinema, or a round trip train between KL and Penang, or even a cheap flight to Singapore! Instead I had inadvertently sipped it away in about 10 minutes.  Oh well, live and learn. At least I got a video and an amusing story out of the incident. I’m sure the hole in my pocket won’t be burning too terribly long.

So, is Kopi Luwak really the ‘Best coffee in the World” ? It certainly does have a good flavor. It also perked me up. Though whether I was energized by the coffee or the shocking price, I’m not sure. One thing is for sure: I’d take an espresso machiato any day to Luwak coffee, even if offered for the same price.  And, one other thing: next time I’ll be sure to ask the price of things before I indulge!

Reporting from the road, today with a big ‘OUCH’, Lash

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