The Many Charms of Varna – Bulgaria
I wasn’t expecting to like Varna, Bulgaria. It’s a big city on the Black Sea on Bulgaria’s eastern coastline. In fact, Varna is the biggest city and port on the Black Sea.
But it’s most famous as a huge beach party destination in summer.
I’ve seen photos of Varna’s beaches – jam-packed with rows & columns of beach chairs and umbrellas. So many that you can barely see the sand. And, of course, the beaches are backed by bars, restaurants & cafes galore.
That is not my idea of an enjoyable beach whatsoever. In fact, that’s the kind of place I avoid like the plague.
So I was inclined to completely skip Varna.
But the city is also reputed to be full of beautiful historic architecture. And that I definitely like.
In addition, I was assigned to review one luxury boutique hotel there. So I was learning towards visiting Varna despite its crowded party beach reputation.
In any event, I didn’t get over to the Black Sea coast until November, which is way off season for Varna and its lively beach party scene. As it turns out, Varna in November is very peaceful, quiet and nearly empty. That I like.
Even so, I was not prepared to fall head over heels for Varna. But that’s just what happened on my very first day out & about in the city!
Truth be told, Varna’s meager historical architecture was a let down. Sadly, Varna only has a handful of remaining historic buildings scattered about its historic district.
Mostly they city has been over-run by ugly, non-descript boxy modern buildings, with just a few beautiful old buildings wedged in between. And Varna’s much bigger new city is considerably uglier.
The city’s lack of beautiful architecture is another reason I was so surprised to fall for Varna. Usually I only like cities filled with gorgeous buildings. And considering all the stunning European cities I’ve seen this year, my standards have probably become even higher.
But Varna has quite different attractions. Things that quickly made me decide to stay in Varna for one entire month, despite the cold, cloudy November weather rolling in.
Here there are…
Street cats galore!
Street cats are wandering all over Varna – on the main pedestrian walkways, outside shops & restaurants, in Varna’s vast park, on the beaches and along the long coastal walkways. There are so many cats that you can’t fail to see at least a few on any walk in the city, no matter where you go.
Most of the cats are very healthy, with clear eyes, thick glossy fur and full bellies. People here feed the cats daily. Many people take food out to specific cats or to specific locations. Other people toss over food craps from their meals at restaurants & cafes, where cats sit by patiently awaiting their free hand-outs.
Some of the cats are still wary enough of people that they won’t let anyone touch them. But many cats love getting pet, scratched and even picked up and cuddled. I pet as many of them as I can.
Needless to say, as a major cat lover, Varna is a paradise for me simply because of its cats.
Nearly every day here I head out for a walk, cat food in my bag, and find several cats to feed, pet and sit with. I have my favorites, ‘my cats’, that I visit frequently, and others that I meet along the way.
Varna’s massive ‘Sea Garden’ park
Varna’s massive coastal park is one of the best city parks I’ve ever seen any where in the world. It’s right up there with San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park (one of my other all-time favorites).
Sea Garden was created back in 1886 by Varna’s founding fathers and a French landscape / horticulturist, who designed the vast grounds and imported thousands of species of trees and other plants from all over the globe.
The huge upper part of the park rests on a bluff above the coast and ocean down below. It’s filled with a variety of different areas – pine forests, deciduous forests, a wide landscaped promenade leading to a huge statue, performance areas, children’s parks, walkways along the edge of the bluff with look-out points, a couple restaurants, the Astonomical Observatory and a petting zoo.
Three small river gorges run through the park with pedestrian bridges crossing each way up high.
The entire park is pedestrian only. Bikes & electric scooters are also allowed. But no cars or motorized vehicles.
Right now, in November, and especially with cold cloudy weather, the park is nearly empty every day, save for weekends (and then only if the sun is shining).
The lower part of the park runs along the coast, behind a series of small golden beaches and rocky shoreline.
Pretty beaches
Varna is most famous for its beaches. And they are quite pretty, set in curving bays with fine golden sand. Right now they’re blissfully empty. Just sand, sea, sky and birds.
While some beaches are backed by a series of open-air restaurants, others are backed only by the forested bluff.
Miles of coastal walkways & cycling lanes
As I mentioned earlier, the lower side of Sea Garden Park runs right along the coast, past a series of small golden-sand beaches, open restaurants & bars and rocky shoreline. Several stone staircases and a sole road winding around the park connect the upper and lower areas of the vast parkland.
The lower coastal road is popular with cyclists, walking enthusiasts and dog owners taking their dogs out to stroll.
It’s a great coastal stretch that runs for several miles, with continuously changing scenery.
Free sulfuric hot baths
Out along the coastal walk, a natural hot spring/river flows into the sea. Residents have created a public bathhouse for people to enjoy the sulfuric hot water.
It’s a pretty basic place, truth be told. It consists of a large cement ‘bath’ with built-in steps or sitting platforms. There are narrow cement changing areas for men and women, as well as basic shower areas.
But it’s free! And it’s right beside the sea and a small beach. It’s a beautiful spot to sit in steaming hot minearl water while gazing at the sea, sky and beach.
I go enjoy the hot water every second or third day.
Sea gulls & other water birds
Huge numbers of sea gulls live at Varna. They frequent the park and downtown streets as much as the beaches.
Hearing their loud, raucous calls reminds me that I’m at the sea, a place I always love to be, and makes me feel warm and happy.
A huge bonus for me here at Varna is that in mornings I wake up to the sounds of sea gulls calling right outside my window! It’s awesome!
Of course there are many other great birds here in Varna, too.
Most amazingly, a flock of swans has been hanging out at the beach lately. I can only presume they’re passing through on their migration.
Local residents seem utterly amazed to see the swans here, with many people stopping to take their photos and watch them wander the beach and swim in the sea.
Delicious cafeteria-style restaurants
Probably my favorite way to eat meals is to visit cafeteria-style restaurants where a selection of pre-cooked hot meals are on display in glass cases. It’s a fast, easy and inexpensive way to eat.
Traveling around SE Asia for so many years, I became accustomed to this style of eating. It’s so much easier and faster than traditional & more formal restaurants.
Quite happily, Varna has several cafeteria-style restaurants. I’ve tried three thus far. Two were so-so, but the third serves really delicious food. In fact, I eat there every single day! And it’s only three blocks from my place. Easy peasy!
Gorgeous historic architecture
As I noted above, Varna does not have a large number of historic buildings, not even in the small historic district.
However, Varna does have a handful of really spectacular buildings, such as the huge golden cathedral, with its brass-domed turrets, the vibrant Varna Opera House and others scattered about the town.
Excellent museums
Varna has several really exellent museums, including the Ethnography Museum, History of Varna Museum, Naval Museum and the Archeaology Museum, among others.
Varna’s Archeaology Museum is actually internationally famous! That’s because it houses the world’s oldest man-made gold jewelry and objects. And not just a small amount, either. The total weight of the gold amounts to nearly half the gold found in the famous Egyptian tombs!
Varna’s gold objects were discovered in ancient Neolithic burial sites nearby, dating to the 6000s BC. That’s 7000 years ago! I can hardly believe that 7000 years ago humans were making gold jewelry. Far out!
Interesting day-trip attractions
Within one hour from Varna there are several really interesting & diverse attractions that make easy day trips from the city by public transportation. They include a stone monastery set into cliffs, a petrified rock pillar forest & desert, the fabulous Euxinograde Palace and various archeaological sites.
Thus far, I’ve only visited Euxiongrade Palace. That’s mostly due to nearly two weeks of crappy weather here. Sigh. But I will certainly visit a few more while I’m here. Lucikly, it looks like the weather is going to improve, too.
A plethora of music, dance & theater performances
Varna has been the center of cultural art for literally centuries – first under the Greek rule, then under Roman rule, and more recently, due to European influences.
There are so many performanaces of opera, classical music, plays, musicals and other shows that the performance billboards run for blocks along one of Varna’s main shopping streets.
While I’m here, there’s a performance nearly every night! I will definitely have to catch a few of them, including the ballet and the symphony. Happily, prices are quite reasonable, Math the lowest rates usually 15 Leva / $8 US.
Talented street musicians & performers
Speaking of performances, Varna hosts some excellent street musicians!
There’s a phenomenal violinist who plays out on the main streets most days. There are also a couple accordian players, a bagpipe player, one man who plays circus music on an electric keyboard in the park and a couple of great guitarists.
Nearly everywhere I walk in the main streets and the park, I can hear beautiful music playing most days.
Everything else I want & need for good daily living
These are things that I particularly like to have available when i’m living in a place for a while.
Gym. Starbucks. Gourmet bakeries & specialty shops. Second-hand clothing stores. Big cinema. Large supermarket Math gourmet items.
Summary
So there you have it – all the fantastic things about Varna, Bulgaria that quickly enticed me to stay here one entire month, despite winter cold coming on.
Right now, I’m half-way through my stay and still greatly enjoying waking up the calls of sea gulls outside my window then going outside to feed all the beautiful purring cats, stroll through large leafy Sea Garden Park or along the beaches and coastal road.
If it weren’t for the ever-increasing cold, I might even be reluctant to leave come the end of my month’s stay! Then again, I’ve got my Christmas week skiing vacation in Bansko, Bulgaria booked and I’m incredibly excited to go see snowy mountains and test my very rusty skills gliding down the mountain slopes. Lol.
You might also like:
16 Highlights of Travel in Eastern Europe
My First Impressions of Bulgaria
=====================================
Hi! I'm Lash, an American nomadic world traveler who's been traveling solo since 1998. I’m passionate about traveling the world nomadically and then sharing it all with you. I hope to inspire you to travel the world, to entertain you with tales from the road, and to help you reach your travel dreams. Welcome! 
