My Visit to a Tropical Paradise Island: Koh Bulon – Thailand

beautiful and relaxing Koh Bulon – Thailand

My Visit to a Tropical Paradise Island: Koh Bulon – Thailand

I arrived at Koh Bulon by speedboat on a rough, wind-tossed sea one afternoon in early April. The wind had been blowing fiercely for three days, bullying the normally tranquil Andaman Sea into a wild tumble of 2-meter swells rolling every which way, crashing into each other, creating a washing-machine sea. The monsoon season had strangely arrived one month early this year.

I was infinitely grateful to our superbly skilled young captain, who patiently navigated the chaotic waves, up and down, up and down, rarely even slapping the boat over the wave crests. It was thanks to his skill that we reached Koh Bulon all in one piece, not a bruise or tear-stained cheek among the 12 guests aboard.

Thai fishing boats huddled at Koh Bulon to escape rough seas

The usual 30-minute trip took over an hour, testament to the roughness of the sea. When we finally did reach Koh Bulon, an amazing sight awaited us: Over three dozen large, colorful wooden Thai fishing boats were all huddled together on the leeward side of the island, escaping the stormy weather. That was a final testament to the severity of the sea that day.

Thai longtail boat in mangroves on the shores of Koh Bulon

When I finally stepped ashore, my second surprise awaited me: Bulon was eerily silent, nearly deserted. That was a most excellent discovery! It seemed I’d finally found a quiet, peaceful island in south Thailand after two solid weeks of dealing with large, noisy groups of Thais invading the national park islands to the south and the over-packed tourist boats that carried them out there.

I later learned from a German couple on Koh Bulon that two nights earlier a dramatic storm full of lightening, thunder and pounding rain had attacked the island. The following morning nearly everyone on Bulon had departed en mass. It seemed I owed my peaceful paradise island to a passing storm.

boats at Koh Bulon & distant islands under dark skies

Even later I figured out that it was indeed due to the storm and Bulon’s low season having arrived that I could fully enjoy its peaceful side. I learned that during high season Bulon is packed with families toting children. And a small hillside bar, not far from my bungalow, must surely be much much louder and more boisterous during high season.

I was told that during high season all of Bulon’s dozen small bungalow resorts are completely booked. It’s common for extra visitors to arrive only to find no place to stay and end up camping in the pine forest.

I’m pretty confident that I would not enjoy Bulon during high season. Too busy, too crowded, much too noisy. Once again I thanked the passing storm for scaring off the last remnants of Bulon’s tourist season.

In any event, having just arrived and only aware of its current deserted state, I scoped out the room situation within walking distance of my drop off point. Everywhere I walked the island was devoid of people, save the few owners and staff running Bulon’s low-key bungalow resorts. Yes indeed, the island was perfectly quiet and empty.

my lovely thatched bungalow on Koh Bulon Island – Thailand

I found a charming thatched bungalow for 300 B / $10 US and lugged my bags, food and water supplies over in three loads. I’d stocked up with one month of supplies, planning to island hop from Bulon up through the Trang Province islands.

I showered, settled in and strolled around the island. It was pretty much the same as I’d remembered it from 11 years earlier. Thankfully, very little development had defaced lovely Koh Bulon.

Casuarina pine forest at Koh Bulon

I made a point of visiting the charming Casuarina pine tree forest that overlooks Bulon’s east coast beach. I had camped there for a week on my previous visit.

I was relieved to find the forest still intact, still permitting free camping, and still completely undeveloped, except for a cute unobtrusive bar built entirely of natural materials, its perimeter marked by a row of landscaping plants. It was closed up tight by the time I arrived. Perhaps it had shut down just the day before, after the storm?

Having scoped out the island and found it intact, I settled into life in my little slice of tropical paradise. Over the next few days I explored all the corners, resorts, beaches and bays of the tiny island.

A 15-minute walk could take me from the west to east sides. A 10-minute walk down another path ended at Mango Bay on Bulon’s south shores. That bay was inhabited by a fishing village, packed high with homemade crab cages, stacks of fishing flags and piles of buoys. The fishermen’s homes were mere shacks of thatch, wood and corrugated metal sheeting.

freshly pressed rubber mats drying in sun

En route to Mango Bay I passed through a small working rubber plantation. The trees bared spiraling scars in their bark, cut by the rubber workers to allow sap to flow downward into coconut bowl cups attached to the trees. Further back in the rubber tree forest was a rack of pressed rubber mats, drying in the sun.

The final path on Koh Bulon went through tiny ‘Baan Koh Bulon’ – Bulon Island Village. It consists of a school, an open field for soccer, a row of cement rooms, a few stand-alone thatch bungalows and the ever-so-cute Bulon Police Station. It happily greets visitors with a friendly sign ‘Welcome to Koh Bulon’.

Pansand Resort – Koh Bulon

The village path gave way to a grassy area, passing a small coconut grove and a patch of palms engulfed by large shaggy ferns. Then I suddenly found myself on the charming grounds of Pansand Resort, the most peaceful resort on the island, in my opinion.

To my surprise, the strong winds and gray skies cleared up much quicker than I’d expected. My second morning on Bulon I woke up to bright blue sunny skies and nearly flat calm seas. From that day on I swam and snorkeled Bulon’s two reefs, alternately, every morning. I suntanned on the powdery white beach, happily soaking up the sun’s hot rays and healthy doses of Vit. D. That, to me, was the paradise I’d been seeking.

lovely view from Koh Bulon

Over the 10 days I stayed at Bulon, the weather changed on a daily basis. We went through hot sun, heavy clouds, dark threatening skies, rain, more sunshine, back and forth like a psychotic personality. That made for dramatic, ever-changing panoramic views of distant islands and the mountainous Thai coastline that sometimes appeared crystal clear, other times was completely hidden in mist or cloud cover. The natural lighting, too changed continuously: blindingly bright afternoons, dark all-blue panoramas, brilliant sunsets.

My daily routine consisted of waking up to birds singing just outside my charming thatched bungalow, doing my morning stretches and breathing exercises, eating breakfast from my abundant food supplies then heading out to explore. With the ever-changing weather I got into a habit of visiting each side of the island to check out views from each beach and bay.

my favorite kitten on Koh Bulon

On my rounds I’d inevitably meet up with some of Bulon’s friendly cats. Naturally I’d have to stop, pet and play with them all. Two small kittens hung out with me regularly at a restaurant I frequented.

After my early morning explorations I’d head to one of two resorts that overlooked Bulon’s best beach, which wraps around the east and north sides of the island. There I’d swim and/or snorkel, lay in the sun, read a book under shady trees then eat lunch.

Afternoons I spent working four to five hours: writing, editing photos, answering emails and other tasks involved with earning a living as a travel blogger. About 5 pm I’d take a break to shower, eat, then head to Bulon’s west side beach to watch colorful sunsets.

After dark it was back to work for another one to two hours for social media interactions and a few final tasks. Before bed I’d watch a dvd or read.

My stay on Bulon would not be complete without mentioning Ni and Muda’s Restaurant, where I went to eat nearly every meal. Ni and her sisters cooked the best and least expensive food on the island. It became my hang out when not working, swimming or exploring.

Ni & Muda Restaurant

Ni, her sisters and I all took a shining to each other. From their end, they liked me because I spoke Thai and was friendly. I took a shining to their warm kindness towards me and for adjusting some of their meals to suite my tastes. We also eventually uncovered that Ni’s husband, Muda, had worked on the same Survivor Thailand production on Koh Tarutao that I had, back in 2002. Small world!

dramatic sunset at Koh Bulon

Eventually my relaxing, peaceful life on Koh Bulon came to an end. I was sorry to say good bye to Ni and sisters when I left. In fact, I was sorry to say good bye to Bulon Island itself.

I was half in mind to stay longer, but the wonderful islands I knew further north in Trang Province were also calling to me. Off I went one calm sea morning for more island adventures.

QUESTIONS:

Do you  have a favorite tropical paradise island? 

If so, where and why is it so amazing?

Does Koh Bulon sound like your kind of paradise? 

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You might also like: 

Koh Tarutao Island National Park

Koh Adang & the Other Islands of Tarutao National Park

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