TRAVEL TIPS: OVERLAND TRAVEL FROM KUALA LUMPUR TO SINGAPORE

 OVERLAND TRAVEL FROM KUALA LUMPUR TO SINGAPORE

In 2011 overland travel from KL to Singapore, and visa versa, became considerably more complicated and expensive, much to my and any other budget travelers’ chagrin. In fact, travel from KL to all points south and east has also been affected.

 This unfortunate state of affairs is primarily the result of two major factors: the closure of Singapore’s downtown train station and the relocation of most bus departures from Kuala Lumpur’s centrally located Puduraya Station to the new TBS station (Terminal Berspadu Selatan) way outside the city.

 Here’s the train situation:

Prior to last year, trains from KL finished in Singapore’s CBD, at the south end of Chinatown and within walking distance of the Singapore River and Harbor. From the train station, it was a 10-minute taxi ride to Little India, the location of many guest houses and backpackers. To Orchard Road, it would take about 15 minutes by taxi. All points were also easily accessed by bus and Singapore’s extensive underground train system, and cost $1-2 Sing.

As of 2011, all trains now terminate just across the Malaysian border, barely inside Singapore’s border, at an area called Woodlands. From there, travelers can easily take buses, trains, and taxis down into the city, but it’s definitely much further, more time consuming, and more expensive.

That adds yet another leg to the journey from KL. Taxis from Woodlands to Little India, for example, take 30-45 minutes, depending on traffic, and cost $20-$25 Sing. ( $16-20 US). That more than doubles the cost of a journey from KL, since the taxi costs more than the train!

Buses aren’t nearly as expensive, of course, and take about 30-60 minutes to various points in central Singapore. Still, it’s one extra step, more time, and a bit more cash that wasn’t required before.

The bus situation…

has degenerated just as badly, but at the KL end of the journey. Prior to the renovation and re-opening of Puduraya Bus Station in central KL in 2011, most long-distance buses to anywhere in Malaysia and to Singapore originated at Puduraya, which is a simple 5-10 minute walk from either Bukit Bintang or Chinatown, the locations of most budget hotels, backpackers, and guest houses.

Granted, Puduraya created a hugely over-congested traffic blockade with all those buses coming and going. And the station was a messy, dirty, chaotic, intimidating place full of pouncing bus touts, all trying to direct new arrivals to their particular bus company. Even I, a seasoned traveler, avoided going there as much as possible.

So, the good news is that the new Puduraya Station is an immaculately clean, modern, spacious and somewhat more organized station. Even better, touts have been drastically reduced, making the station much more pleasant.

Quite unfortunately, the city has relocated the departure and arrival of all buses heading east or south to other bus stations, which are much further from downtown KL. The worst thing for travelers heading south is that the new  TBS bus station is not even in KL!

It’s way outside the city, halfway to the international airport, which makes it about 20-30 km from the city. If you’re departing from anywhere in central KL, it takes at least one hour to get there, making any trip south significantly longer and, just like the train situation in Singapore, it adds an extra leg to the journey.

Fortunately at least, access to TBS is easy and straightforward via KL’s extensive city train system- LRT. It’s also not very expensive to get there: about 3-3.50 RM ($1- 1.20 US). The TBS Station is new, modern, and clean. Too bad it’s so very far.

 Other overland travel tips:

*  buy all your tickets in Malaysia

If you’re returning to KL from Singapore, be sure to book your return journey in KL. That way, you’ll pay Malaysian prices for your tickets. On the other hand, if you buy the return ticket in Singapore, you’ll have to pay Sing. Dollars. That will literally double or triple your fare. If you book your tickets online, with the train originating in Singapore, you’ll be charged Sing. Dollars. If it’s a RT originating in KL, you’ll pay MR for the whole fare.

As a real-life example, my recent overnight train in a 2nd class sleeping berth from KL to Singapore costs 40 MR. That equates to $13.33 US. In Singapore that same sleeping berth back to KL costs $ Sing 40. Now that is $33.33 US! Nearly triple price.

The same holds true for buses. From KL, bus prices to Singapore range from 25 MR on up to 99 MR for super luxury liners, with a usual fare at 30 MR. In $US, that’s a range of $8.33 US to $33 US. 30 MR / $10 is average.

In Singapore, those same buses back to KL, range from $ S25-90. That equates to $21-75 US. The common $S 30 fare is $25 US. So, would you prefer to pay $10 or $25 US?

*  Trains depart on time but arrive late

Generally speaking, Malaysian trains depart on time, so be sure to arrive at the station well before the train departs so you have time to climb aboard before it leaves. On the other hand, by the time the train reaches its destination, it’s usually 1-2 hours late. Note that down when you’re making your arrival plans.

* Take warm clothes for the journey

Malaysian long-distance buses and trains are freezing. I refer to them as ‘super refrigerated’ or ‘freezers’. I generally have to put on all the warm clothes I own, pull up my hoodie, tie it tight around my neck, and keep my hands in pockets to stay warm. Even then, I end up with ‘frozen’ nose and fingers. Of course my preferred temperature is 30-35C (85-95F) so 28C is already chilly for me when just sitting.

Chances are you won’t get quite as frozen as I do, but you’ll at least want to have one layer of long sleeves and pants, maybe more. You’ve been warned.

Wondering what to do in KL or Singapore?

Here’s a bunch of free activities in each city:

Kuala Lumpur (pt 1)

Kuala Lumpur (pt 2)

Singapore (pt 1)

Singapore  Chinatown

——————————————————————————————————————————————-

You might also enjoy:

TRAVEL TIP: SECRET PLACES TO EAT IN KUALA LUMPUR TRAVEL TIP: FREE GUIDED TOURS AT MALAYSIA NATIONAL MUSEUM TRAIN TO PENANG TRAVEL TIPS: GUIDE TO DAY TRIP AROUND CHARMING PENANG ISLAND